Bhopali Batua & Zari Craft of Madhya Pradesh

The Bhopali Batua is a handcrafted purse from Bhopal, Madhya Pradesh, renowned for its intricate zardozi and beadwork. Originally a part of the Nawabi culture, these purses were used by royalty and aristocrats to carry essential items like paan, cloves, perfumes, and coins. Over time, batuas transitioned from being exclusive to the elite to becoming a fashion accessory and a symbol of traditional craftsmanship, widely used in weddings, festivities, and as souvenirs.

The making of a Bhopali Batua is a labor-intensive process that requires skill and precision. It begins with designing and tracing, where a pattern is drawn on butter paper and perforated with tiny holes. This design is transferred onto a fabric—usually silk, velvet, or satin—which is then tightly secured on a wooden frame (adda) for embroidery. A mixture of chalk powder and kerosene is applied through the perforations to imprint the design onto the fabric.

The embroidery process employs the zardozi technique, using a hooked needle called aari for precision. The artisans adorn the batua with gold and silver threads, sequins, metallic discs, and beads. The motifs are often inspired by Mughal and Persian art, featuring floral patterns, betel leaves, and geometric designs. Traditionally, semi-precious stones were used, but today they have been replaced by synthetic embellishments.

Once the embroidery is completed, the fabric is stitched into the semi-circular batua shape, often with compartments for organizing items. Some batuas, like the char-khana (four-compartment batua), were designed to hold specific items such as gutkha, cloves, cardamom, and areca nut. The batua is fastened with a decorative drawstring (dori), often made of silk thread or metallic wire, finished with tassels (phundas) and beads.

The raw materials used in making batuas include silk, velvet, zari threads, beads, sequins, metal discs, and wooden tools such as the adda (frame), thapa (pedestal for drawstrings), and pitta (wooden hammer for flattening embroidery).