Sumi Shawl Weaving of Nagaland

The Naga Sumi Shawl, traditionally woven by the Sumi tribe of Zunheboto district in Nagaland. Known for their distinctive patterns and vivid colours, the shawls are woven primarily by women using simple back-strap tension looms.

The male shawl, Aqhumi / Apu-Asu Qhumi, features black fabric edged with red stripes and adorned with red rectangular motifs outlined in yellow.

The female version, Hekutha Phi, is a striped, vividly coloured shawl that stands out among Naga textiles and is notably woven by Mrs. Khezheli Chishi of Naghutomi village, a Bharat Ratna awardee. The Sumi textiles are made from cotton, wool, and sometimes silk, dyed using natural colours derived from local plants like Strobitanthes and Athuo.

The entire process—from spinning, dyeing, and weaving—is deeply embedded in Sumi tradition. The shawl’s patterns often reflect one’s social status, and motifs are earned through ritual and merit.